Sunday, February 17, 2008

Travel with me to Kulpahar

Origin of word Kulpahar
I start this travelog with the origin of Kulpahar's name. Historians have different theories about the origin of its name, primarily there are two opinions about the name;

i. Two village theory - According to the British gazetteer of United Province of Agra and Oudh -1909 there were two different villages Kulhua and paharia which later jointly became the town of Kulpahar; even the folklore says the same. It doesn't have any supporting evidence for the theory; it seems that the British writer of the Gazetteer went by the folklore.

ii. Second theory is based on some historical facts dating back early 17th century. There was a cult "gossain" in the central India and one of the descendant of the followers of this cult "Himmat Bahadur Gossain" who actively took part in Indian freedom struggle was born in Kulpahar and Kulpahar had connection with this cult since the origin of the cult. Historians who relate Kulpahar with the "gossain cult" gave the theory that Kulpahar word is comprised of two words Kula and pahar means "Clan mountain". Some relates it with a tantrik rite Kaula Tantra. Kulpahar was a site to perform secret tantrik rituals of gossain cult on a hill near Gahra lake; hence the town got its name Kaula pahar which as the time passed became Kulpahar.

How to reach Kulpahar: Kulpahar is well connected with the cities like Delhi, Mumbai, Kolkata, Agra, Jhansi, Kanpur, Allahabad, Varanasi, Gwalior and Jabalpur. Major trains that connect Kulpahar with the rest of the countries are Uttar Pradesh Sampark Kranti Exp, Chambal Exp, Bundelkhand Exp, Mahakoshal Exp, Tulsi Exp. Nearest big junction is Jhansi Jn which is well connected with the almost all parts of India. Regular bus services are available from Allahabad, Varanasi and Kanpur. Kulpahar can be reached by Air also, nearest Airport is Khajuraho from where Indian and Jet Airways flights are available for Delhi, Agra and Varanasi.

Climate: Climate of Kulpahar is very cold during winters and hot during summers but rainy season is the best time to visit as all the lakes are full of water and the weather is pleasant during that period. Temperature ranges between 20 and 45 degrees Celsius and during winter it ranges between 2 and 20 degree Celsius.

Places to visit:
Kulpahar has many natural as well as historical/archaeological sites to visit.

Senapati Palace: This palace was built by Jagatraj the grand son of Maharaja Chhatrasal, the great bundela warrior, in early 18th century A.D. It is situated on a steep hill near the collectorate on Kulpahar-Nowgong highway. The architecture of this building resembles with that of palaces in Rajasthan.




Toria fort and Palace: There is one more palace built on a hillock on NH-76 at western end of the city. This palace is inside a fort which was dismantled by the British in 1804 A.D. The last ruler of the palace was Diwan Deshpat. The ruins of this fort and palace still exist and are picturesque.







Gossain tantrik rituals' site: The picturesque site for tantrik rites of gossain cult is near Gahra lake on the northern end of the town. There are one octagonal structure which was used for the rites and one mansion is also stands on the bank of Gahra lake which has some nicely carved structures.




Chandela period temples: There are as many as 10 Chandela period temples in the close vicinity of the town. The largest amongst them is Near Rawatpura lake which is at a distance of 8 Kms from Kulpahar Railway station. All the temples were built in the same line as the famous temples of Khajuraho.







Urmil Sagar:
Urmil Sagar is the biggest lake in the area. It is at a distance of 20 Kms from the town.
India's first national water sports were organized there. It is a dam made over Urmil river and it spreads over several square kilometers of area of states of Uttar Pradesh and Madhya Pradesh. Landscape is very beautiful and the place is ideal for picnic. One Irrigation department's rest house is there for stay.

Arjun Sagar: It is the second largest lake in the area. It was built over Arjun river to save the cities of Kulpahar and Charkhari from the flood water of river Arjun. It is at a distance of 10 Kms from Kulpahar Bus station. A nice place for fishing.

Others lakes: There are many other beautiful lakes in and near the town. Major lakes of them are Bela Sagar, Bara Tal, Mohan Tal and Gahra Tal. All these lakes are primarily used for irrigation and the drinking water supply to the town.





Fairs and festivals:
All the major Indian festivals are celebrated here. The longest of them is festival of navratra and Dussera. Its a 10 days long festival and idols of goddess Durga are placed in many places and day-night long celebrations continues. The festival ends with the immersion of the idols in bara tal lake. Other major festivals are Holi, Diwali, Eid, Christmas and Raksha bandhan.
In the month of august and september famous fair of Jalvihar is organized in the city. It is month long celebration. during the opening day of fair idols of all the temples of town are taken out of the temple and a procession of the idols roams around the city. You will find the true essence of bundeli culture in this fair. Fair of Jalvihar is organized only in three cities including Kulpahar, the other two cities are Jagdalpur in Bastar and Mauranipur, a nearby town of Kulpahar, in Uttar Pradesh. Jagdalpur fair is the most famous one.

Cuisine: Typical north indian food is served and taken everywhere in the town. But a typical bundeli cuisine called "bhata aur gakariya" is very popular here. It is a curry of brinjal and a specially cooked bread. One must taste when s/he visits the place. After food it is must to have dessert so try the famous milk cake at Rahul Restaurant in the main market and Kalakand at Matadin aka Matti halwai's shop. And after you finish your meal don't forget to taste the famous betel of Mahoba, I can assure you that the taste of it will last forever.

What to buy and where to buy: Kulpahar is also known for soft-marble work. So when you visit the town buy some marble decorative goods as a memento. There is one state award winner for copper handicrafts, you may buy some copper wares from him also. Buy a bunch of betel leaves from here 'cause you won't get them anywhere else.

Best time to visit: The best time to visit this place is from August till March. During this period you will find lotus and white lilies in the lakes.
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